Little Potola (Tùng Tán Lâm)

Tùng Tán Lâm

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Grottes du saut du tigre (Yunnan)

 

Hổ Khiêu Hiệp

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Hổ Khiếu Hiệp mà người Hoa gọi là hẻm núi hổ nhảy được hình thành trên dòng sông Kim Sa (Jinsha), một nhánh của sông Dương Tử. Nó là một danh thắng nổi tiếng nằm cách xa thành phố Lệ Giang 60 cây số về phía bắc thuộc tỉnh Vân Nam và xa Trung Đạo (Zhong Dao) nay là Shangrila một trăm cây số. Nó dài khoảng 16 cây số nằm giữa hai núi Tuyết Ngọc Long (Yulong Xue Shan) cao 5596 thước và núi tuyết Cáp Ba (Haba Xue Shan) cao 5396 thước với một loạt 18 ghềnh thác được bao quanh bởi những vách đá dựng đứng, vực sâu hun hút, có 2000 thước, và được cho là hẻm núi sông sâu nhất thế giới.

Truyền thuyết còn kể rằng có một con hổ đã nhảy từ bờ này sang bờ kia để thoát khỏi một thợ săn… nhưng lối đi hẹp nhất hiện nay chỉ là 30 thước. Khi bạn nhìn thấy sức mạnh của dòng sông cuồn cuộn ở phía dưới chân bạn thì bạn sẽ hiểu vì sao cú nhảy ấy nó lại trở thành huyền thoại.

Dân cư sống ở nơi nầy là người Nạp Tây (Naxi). Đây là một trong 56 dân tộc thiểu số sống ở Vân Nam và tộc người duy nhất còn dùng hình tượng chữ (dongba). Họ có nguồn gốc từ người Khương sống định cư trên cao nguyên Tây Tạng vào thời cổ. Họ sống rải rác ở các làng mạc của các thị trấn và mưu sống bằng nghề sản xuất ngũ cốc và du lịch ngày nay. Chớ trước đó họ cùng người Hán, người Tạng hay thường dùng qua nhiều thế kỷ các con đường mòn dành cho lừa đi về những nơi tiêu thụ trà và các hàng hóa khác như lông thú, xạ hương,muối vân vân.. ở các vùng cao nguyên Tây Tạng và Trung Quốc (Đại Lý, Lệ Giang và Đức Kinh (Shangrila). Bởi vậy màng lưới của các con đường mòn nầy nó mới có tên gọi là đường trà hay trong tiếng quan thoại chámgudào dù nó không nổi tiếng như con đường tơ lụa mà chúng ta biết nhưng phong cảnh nó rất ngoạn mục theo lời kể của những người thích đi bộ đường dài (trekking).

Etant connues sous le nom chinois 虎跳峡 (Hu tiào xiá), les gorges du Saut du Tigre,  se sont formées sur la rivière Jinsha, un affluent du Yangtsé. Ce site pittoresque se situe à 60 kilomètres au nord de Lijiang, dans la province du Yunnan, et à 100 kilomètres de Zhongdao (aujourd’hui Shangri-La). Longues d’environ 16 kilomètres, elles s’étendent entre le Yulong Xue Shan ( 5596 mètres d’altitude) et le Haba Xue Shan (5396 mètres d’altitude), offrant un série de 18 rapides et de cascades entourés de falaises abruptes et d’une gorge profonde de 2000 mètres, ce qui leur vaut d’être considérées comme les gorges fluviales les plus profondes du monde.

La légende raconte qu’un tigre aurait sauté d’une rive à l’autre pour échapper à un chasseur… mais le passage le plus étroit ne mesure que 30 mètres de large. Face à la puissance de la rivière tumultueuse, on comprend aisément pourquoi ce saut est devenu légendaire.

Les habitants de cette région sont les Naxi. Ils font partie des 56 minorités ethniques du Yunnan et sont les seuls à utiliser encore l’écriture Dongba (pictogramme). Ils descendent du peuple Qiang, installé sur le plateau tibétain depuis l’Antiquité. Ils vivent dispersés dans les villages des bourgades, et tirent leurs revenus de la production céréalière et du tourisme. Autrefois, ils empruntaient, avec les Han et les Tibétains, les sentiers muletiers pour se rendre sur les marchés du plateau tibétain et de la Chine (Dali, Lijiang et Dejing/Shangrila) avec leurs produits (fourrure, musc, sel, thé etc. Ce réseau de sentiers est ainsi appelé la Route du Thé, ou « chámgudào » en mandarin. Bien que moins célèbre que la Route de la Soie, elle offre des paysages à couper le souffle, selon les amateurs de la randonnée.

Being known in pinying 虎跳峡 (Hu tiào xiá) by the Chinese, Tiger Leaping Gorge was formed on the Jinsha River, a tributary of the Yangtze River. It is a famous scenic spot located 60 kilometers north of Lijiang City in Yunnan Province and 100 kilometers from Zhong Dao, now Shangrila. It is about 16 kilometers long, situated between two mountains: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong Xue Shan) at 5596 meters and Haba Snow Mountain (Haba Xue Shan) at 5396 meters, featuring a serie of 18 rapids surrounded by steep cliffs and a deep abyss of 2000 meters, considered the deepest river gorge in the world.

Legend has it that a tiger once jumped from one bank to the other to escape a hunter… but the narrowest passage today is only 30 meters. When you see the power of the rushing river below your feet, you will understand why that leap became a legend.

The inhabitants of this region are the Naxi. They are part of the 56 ethnic minorities of Yunnan and are the only ones still using the Dongba script. They descend from the Qiang people, who settled on the Tibetan plateau since ancient times. They live scattered in villages of small towns, earning their income from cereal production and tourism. In the past, they, along with the Han and Tibetans, used mule trails to reach the markets of the Tibetan plateau and China (Dali, Lijiang, and Dejing/Shangrila) with their products (fur, musk, salt, tea, etc.). This network of trails is thus called the Tea Horse Road, or « chámgudào » in pinying. Although less famous than the Silk Road, it offers breathtaking landscapes, according to hiking enthusiasts.

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Shangrila (Yunnan)

Tu viện Tùng Tán Lâm 

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Shangrila nó không những là trung tâm của ba dòng sông lớn Dương Tử, Lan Thương, đoạn đầu của dòng sông huyền thoại Cửu Long (Mékong) và Nộ Giang (sông Thanlwin). Nó còn có  nghĩa là địa điểm của vận mệnh và sự may mắn theo ngôn ngữ của người Tạng.

Đây cũng là một thế giới riêng biệt được mang tên Shangri-La trong chuyến du lịch gần đây của mình ở tỉnh Vân Nam, gần biên giới Trung Quốc-Tây Tạng (cuối tháng 1 năm 2026) với chủ đích tìm hiểu dưới gốc độ tâm linh Phật giáo Mật Tông và khám phá cao nguyên huyền bí. Nó còn là thế giới đã mất được mô tả trong tiểu thuyết của James Hilton. Chính tại đây, mình tìm thấy một bầu không khí độc đáo nhờ sự hiện diện của người dân Tạng với các ngôi làng cổ và phong tục truyền thống của họ như các  nhất là có một công trình kiến trúc  phật giáo Tây Tạng  độc nhất có hơn 300 tuổi đời với tu viện Tùng Tán Lâm  được xem như là Tiểu Potola so sánh với Potola ở Lhassa. Muốn đến nơi nầy, du khách phải vượt 146 bậc thang.

Shangrila n’est pas seulement le centre de trois grands fleuves: le Yangtsé, le Lancang, la source du Mékong et le Nujiang (fleuve Thanlwin). Cela signifie aussi un lieu du destin et de chance selon la langue tibétaine.
C’est aussi un monde à part nommé Shangri-La lors de mon récent voyage dans la province du Yunnan, près de la frontière Chine-Tibet occidental (fin janvier 2026), avec l’intention de  savoir plus sous l’angle spirituel le bouddhisme tantrique et d’explorer le plateau mystérieux. C’est aussi le monde perdu décrit dans le roman de James Hilton. C’est ici que j’ai trouvé une atmosphère unique grâce à la présence des habitants tibétains avec leurs villages anciens et leurs coutumes traditionnelles, notamment un ouvrage architectural  bouddhiste tibétain unique datant de plus de 300 ans avec le monastère de Songzanlin, considéré comme le Petit Potala en comparaison avec celui de Potala à Lhassa. Pour atteindre ce lieu, les visiteurs doivent monter 146 marches.

Shangrila is not only the center of three great rivers: the Yangtze, the Lancang, the source of the Mekong, and the Nujiang (Thanlwin River). It also means a place of destiny and luck according to the Tibetan language.
It is also a world apart named Shangri-La during my recent trip to Yunnan province, near the China-Western Tibet border (end of January 2026), with the intention of learning more about tantric Buddhism from a spiritual perspective and exploring the mysterious plateau. It is also the lost world described in James Hilton‘s novel. It is here that I found a unique atmosphere thanks to the presence of Tibetan inhabitants with their ancient villages and traditional customs, notably a unique Tibetan Buddhist architectural work dating back more than 300 years with the Songzanlin Monastery, considered the Little Potala compared to the Potala in Lhasa. To reach this place, visitors must climb 146 steps.

  1. Tiger leaping gorge. Grottes du saut du tigre (Hổ khiêu hiệp)
  2. Songzanlin Monaster. Petit Potola  (Tùng Tán Lâm)(Photos)

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Nụ Tầm Xuân

Nụ tầm xuân (Saule Marsault pleureur)

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Nụ tầm xuân là tên gọi của một loài cây thuộc chi Liễu, có tên là Liễu tơ (Pussy willow) hay Liễu dê (Salix caprea). Sở dĩ có tên gọi này là vì hoa của nó mọc ra các sợi lông tơ mềm mại như lông mèo. Nụ tầm xuân thường được xem là biểu tượng của sự sinh sôi nảy nở, đâm chồi nảy lộc, thịnh vượng và may mắn. Những nhánh cây nụ tầm xuân với hoa nhỏ mọc quanh thân đại diện cho sự khởi đầu vẹn tròn, thuận lợi và tràn đầy hy vọng.

Trên thực tế, nụ tầm xuân chỉ mang sắc trắng thuần khiết, vô cùng tinh khôi. Nhưng khi chiêm ngưỡng những nhánh nụ tầm xuân được trưng bày trong các hội chợ hoa xuân ngày Tết, bạn sẽ bắt gặp những bó tầm xuân với nhiều màu sắc rực rỡ như: đỏ, vàng, cam, xanh, hồng, tím,…

Nụ tầm xuân est le nom d’une plante appartenant au genre Saule, appelée Saule marsault (Pussy willow) ou Saule des chèvres (Salix caprea). Ce nom vient du fait que ses fleurs produisent des poils doux et soyeux semblables à ceux d’un chat. Ses bourgeons sont souvent perçus comme  le symbole de croissance, d’épanouissement, de prospérité et de chance. Les branches de cette plante, avec leurs petites fleurs qui s’épanouissent autour de la tige, représentent un nouveau départ prometteur, propice  et plein d’espoir.

En réalité, ces bourgeons  sont d’un blanc immaculé, d’une pureté exceptionnelle. Mais en admirant les branches de cette plante en fleurs exposées lors de la visite marchés aux fleurs printaniers durant le nouvel an lunaire, on découvre des bouquets de fleurs aux couleurs éclatantes : rouge, jaune, orange, vert, rose, violet, et bien d’autres encore.

Nụ tầm xuân is the name of a plant belonging to the willow genus, called Pussy willow or Goat willow (Salix caprea). This name comes from the fact that its flowers produce soft and silky hairs similar to those of a cat. Its buds are often seen as the symbol of growth, blossoming, prosperity, and luck. The branches of this plant, with their small flowers blooming around the stem, represent a promising and hopeful new beginning.

In reality, these buds are immaculate white, of exceptional purity. But when admiring the flowering branches of this plant displayed at spring flower markets during  the Lunar New Year, one discovers bouquets of flowers in bright colors: red, yellow, orange, green, pink, purple, and many more.

Des histoires en marge au cœur du complexe Nguyễn Thị Thuật.

Những chuyện bên lề ở giữa lòng chung cư 

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Mỗi ngày, sáng hay chiều tối nào, tụi nầy cũng có thói quen từ khi đến Viêt Nam sau khi ăn cơm hay thường  la cà ngồi quán cà phê. Ngày xưa, người Việt  trò chuyện hay thường bắt đầu bằng cách têm trầu nay sự việc nầy không còn mà được thay thế bằng ly cà phê. Có thể nói, gặp nhau muốn nói chuyện gì cũng được, phải có ly cà phê. Giờ phút nầy cà phê nó không thể thiếu ở người Việt, không biết lúc nào nó lại nằm trong văn hóa  của người  Việt. Không thể thiếu nó nhất là các quán nó đua nhau mọc lên như nấm trong khu chung cư nầy. Không biết  các quán bán được bao nhiêu ly cà phê mỗi ngày mà  đi qua xem vựa, nơi mà   họ lưu trử các khối nước đá trông thấy ở chung cư, thấy mà khiếp sợ. Mới đây mùng hai Tết trên đường về bằng xe grab, cháu tài xế hỏi mình như sau: Chú có phiền không, cho cháu ghé uống một ly cà phê có được không ? Mình mới nói: uống đi cháu, chú đơị cháu. Nhưng nghĩ sao, cháu tài xế không uống, đưa thẳng mình về khách sạn. Lúc  trả tiền, mình mới nói với cháu tài xế: Chú biếu cháu 50.000 đồng tiền  lì xì (2 euros) để cháu uống cà phê đi nha. Cháu tài xế  cười toe toét. Mình muốn nói đây cái sung sướng mà mình nhận  được  trên khuôn  mặt của cháu tài xế khi nhắc đến ly cà phê.

Không nhất thiết uống nhiều ly cà phê trong ngày mới có thể ngồi ở quán, chỉ cần một ly cà phê là đủ rồi, bạn có thể ngồi nguyên ngày. Ở quán cà phê trong chung cư, dù không có thức ăn đi nữa  mình có thể kêu ở các quán bán thức ăn  gần đó mang đến cho mình ăn. Đây là một dịch vụ miễn phí chỉ có ở Việt Nam. Ngồi quán cà phê, tụi nầy có thể thư thản đọc sách,  xem điện thọai, người hay xe cộ đi qua lại  mà cũng có thể  quan sát cuộc sống hằng ngày của người dân sống ở trong chung cư.

Vừa ngồi xuống nghế chưa đầy 5 phút thì có các cháu bé  hay các bà mẹ bế con bán giấy số đến lần lượt xin tụi nầy mua giấy số. Nhưng làm sao mua nổi, người nào cũng có cả trăm tờ, mỗi tờ 10.000 đồng họ chỉ được 1000 đồng nếu họ bán được một tờ. Nếu bán không hết trong ngày, chiều lại không được trả lại. Như vậy họ làm sao có lời, chắc chắn họ phải mất tiền. Phải có  mẹo nào đó. Cách buôn bán giấy số nầy làm mình rất phân vân, có cái gì không ổn. Dĩ nhiên làm mình chạnh lòng nhưng mình chỉ cho tiền các em nhỏ bán giấy số  mà thôi chớ không mua còn anh bạn mình thi chỉ mua giấy số của các người khuyến tật, mua rồi đem tặng các bạn già ở Việt Nam. Hai đứa nầy  lúc nào cũng có ở trong đầu  nhiều câu hỏi nhưng chả bao giờ có câu trả lời chính đáng. Ở chung cư vì cuộc sống rất chật vật, không gian thì eo hẹp, gia đình đông con hay  thường thấy họ ngủ la liệt dưới đất  nên việc nấu ăn trong nhà thường ít thấy. Thông thường thấy họ la cà các  quán, ăn tại chỗ hay mua về ăn. Luôn cả cô em bà con của mình ở  chung cư  một mình hay thường mua đồ ăn ở chợ đem về nhà mà ăn.  Đôi khi cũng ngon đáo  để  như món mắm chưng hột vịt mà cô em thết đãi  tụi nầy một hôm, làm tụi nầy nhớ hoài.  Mình hay thường nghe câu nói nầy từ ông bạn mình: Thế hệ ngày nay không phải là thế hệ của má tụi mình. Phụ nữ Việt Nam không còn biết nấu ăn, chỉ biết  phê bút hay sống ảo mà thôi. Cái nhận xét nầy cũng không hoàn toàn sai. Phải cần có adrenaline  để quên đi sự phiền muộn trong cuộc sống  mong manh.

Ở giữa lòng chung cư, có nhiều nghề sống được lắm  như biết may vá, nấu ăn giỏi như cô Mai, cô Lý. Cô Mai thì nổi tiếng các món xào nhất là bà biết làm sao khi mình ăn còn mùi khói  chớ không có mùi cháy của chảo  như cơm chiên gà, mì xào giòn còn cô Lý thì món tầm bì nước dừa, bánh bèo bì, chè chuối  vân vân phải nói quá ngon làm mình vẫn còn thèm đấy. Muốn ăn các món nầy thì phải chịu khó đợi lúc nào cũng đông khách cả. Quá giờ thì không còn nữa đấy. Họ trù liệu bao nhiêu phần để bán chớ hết thì thôi ngày hôm sau trở lại chớ không như ở Paris  nhiều tiệm đỗ nước thêm để bán phở tiếp. Có một lần anh bạn mình muốn ăn thịt heo quay thôi chớ không muốn ăn bánh hỏi vì thích ăn với bánh mì  nhưng họ không bán vì họ trù liệu trước bao nhiêu bánh hỏi để bán với thịt quay rồi.

Chính ở chung cư nầy mình có duyên được gặp một hôm ở quán cà phê  môt họa sỹ nhỏ tuổi đang ngồi chăm chỉ vẽ cảnh vật ở chung cư với bút mực. Cháu nầy có bản năng vẽ không sữa không làm lem bức tranh với mực. Mình thích qu á chừng nên muốn mua bức tranh nhưng cháu rất dễ thương mới thốt lên như sau: Chú muốn, cháu tặng chú. Mình cũng không ngờ. Đây là duyên cháu có  với chú  đấy thôi. Sau đó anh bạn của mình ngỏ ý mua một tấm tranh khác để mang về Paris tặng bạn. Vui cũng có với cháu họa sỹ nầy mà buồn cũng có với em bé tạc chừng 12 tuổi  ngậm xăng phun lửa thường thấy ở chung cư. Bé nầy thường biểu diễn trước đám đông ngậm xăng phun lửa. Tình cờ mình thấy vậy mới kêu em bé lại hỏi chuyện.  Tại sao con làm vậy, con có biết xăng nó độc nay mai con sẽ bi ung thư cuống họng không? Con nhớ chú dặn con không nên làm nghề nầy nữa. Mình chỉ khuyên nó, thấy thương nó nên cho nó một trăm ngàn đồng, chả là bao nhiêu cả.  Mình cảm thấy bất lực vì mình biết mình không thể làm gì hơn.

Ở chung cư nầy biết bao nhiêu người nghèo, mình có làm được gì không?. Cháu nhờ nghề nầy mỗi ngày cháu kiếm được vài trăm ngàn để nuôi em và sống, ba má cháu ly dị?  Câu nói nầy nó vẫn còn ở trong tâm trí của mình khi mình viết về chung cư. Một con chim én đâu có đem lại mùa xuân. Nhưng không vì thế  mà mình quên đi những trẻ em nghèo nầy. Chúng nó là tương lai của đất nước nầy.

Version française

Depuis notre arrivée au Vietnam, nous avons pris l’habitude de nous attarder dans un café après les repas, matin et soir. Autrefois, les Vietnamiens entamaient les conversations en commençant par la chique du bétel. Mais ce n’est plus le cas d’aujourd’hui. Elle est remplacée par une tasse de café. On peut dire sans se tromper que, quel que soit le sujet de conversation, une tasse de café s’avère indispensable. De nos jours, le café est devenu incontournable pour les Vietnamiens. Il est difficile de dire quand il est entré dans la culture vietnamienne. Il l’est d’autant plus depuis lors  avec la poussée des cafés comme celle des champignons dans ce complexe d’appartements. Je me demande combien de tasses de café ces établissements vendent chaque jour, car le stockage des tonnes de glace dans le complexe est assez effarant. Récemment, le deuxième jour du Têt (Nouvel An lunaire), alors que je rentrais chez moi en taxi grab, le chauffeur m’a demandé : « Monsieur, cela vous dérangerait-il si je m’arrêtais pour prendre un café ? » J’ai répondu  sans hésitation: « Allez-y, je vous attends. » Mais pour une raison inconnue, le jeune chauffeur n’en a pas bu et m’a ramené directement à l’hôtel. Au moment du paiement, j’ai dit au jeune chauffeur : « Voici 50 000 dongs ( à peu près 2 euros) en cadeau de  notre Nouvel An pour vous offrir un café. » Il m’a montré un large sourire. Je voulais souligner la joie que j’avais vue sur son visage à l’évocation du café.

Il n’est pas nécessaire de boire plusieurs tasses de café par jour pour s’attabler dans un café; une seule suffit, et on peut y rester toute la journée. Au café de ce complexe d’appartements, même s’il n’y a pas de nourriture, on peut la commander auprès des vendeurs ambulants du quartier et on est servi sur place. C’est un service gratuit, typiquement vietnamien. Installés au café, nous pouvons nous détendre, lire, consulter nos téléphones, regarder le va et vient des passants et des voitures, et observer le quotidien des habitants. À peine cinq minutes après notre installation, des enfants ou des mères avec des bébés se mettaient à la queue leu leu pour nous vendre des billets de loterie. Mais comment pouvons-nous tout acheter? Chacun en avait une centaine, à 10 000 dongs le billet, et ils ne gagnaient que 1 000 dongs par billet vendu. S’ils n’arrivaient pas à tout vendre dans la journée, ils ne pouvaient pas  rendre les billets à l’endroit où ils les avaient pris. Comment pouvaient-ils faire des bénéfices ? Ils allaient forcément perdre de l’argent. Il devait y avoir une astuce.

Cette façon de vendre des billets de loterie me perturbe beaucoup ; j’ai un mauvais pressentiment. Bien sûr, cela me rend un peu triste. Je donne uniquement  de l’argent aux enfants qui vendent les billets mais  je n’en achète pas.  En revanche, mon ami n’achète des billets qu’à des personnes handicapées et les offre ensuite à ses amis âgés au Vietnam. Nous nous  posons toujours des questions, mais nous n’obtenons  jamais des réponses satisfaisantes. « Vivre dans le complexe d’appartements » est très difficile: l’espace est limité et les familles nombreuses sont obligées de  dormir souvent par terre, si bien que « cuisiner à la maison » est une rareté. On les voit généralement traîner au bistrot, y manger ou acheter des plats à emporter. Même ma cousine vivant seule dans son appartement, préfère d’acheter  souvent de quoi manger au marché.

Parfois, la bouffe achetée est incroyablement délicieuse, comme cette pâte de poisson à la vapeur avec des œufs de canard que ma cousine a achetée et  agrémentée avec des légumes, ce qui nous donne un plat insatiable. J’entends souvent mon ami dire : « La génération d’aujourd’hui n’est pas celle de nos mères. Les Vietnamiennes ne savent plus cuisiner ; elles ne connaissent que Facebook ou vivre dans le monde virtuel. » Ce constat n’est pas totalement faux. Il faut bien une dose d’adrénaline pour oublier les tracas de cette vie fragile.

Au cœur de ce complexe d’appartements, on trouve de nombreux emplois lucratifs comme la couture et la cuisine, à l’instar de ceux de Mmes Mai et Lý. Mme Mai est réputée pour ses plats sautés, notamment pour son talent à leur conserver un léger goût fumé, sans les brûler, comme le riz frit au poulet et les nouilles frites croustillantes. Les plats de Mme Ly, tels que le plat de nouilles de riz agrémentées de la couenne de porc  au lait de coco, le  gâteau de riz à la couenne, la soupe sucrée à la banane  etc. sont si délicieux que j’en ai encore l’eau à la bouche

Pour déguster ces plats, il faut s’armer de patience ; les stands de ces dames sont toujours bondés. Si on rate l’heure de fermeture, il n’y en aura plus. Ils ne proposent qu’un nombre limité de portions et, si elles sont épuisées, il faut  revenir le lendemain, contrairement à Paris où de nombreux restaurants continuent à remplir leur soupe de nouilles avec de l’eau pour maintenir leur activité. Un jour, mon ami a voulu manger uniquement le porc laqué, sans les nouilles de riz, car il préférait les déguster avec du pain. Mais on a refusé de lui en vendre, car le restaurant avait déjà prévu la quantité de nouilles à vendre avec celle du porc laqué.

 C’est dans ce complexe que j’ai la chance de rencontrer un jour, un jeune artiste dans un café. Il était en train de dessiner à l’encre  la scène du complexe avec soin. Ce jeune artiste avait un don inné pour le dessin ; l’encre ne bavait pas. J’aimais tellement son tableau que j’aurais voulu l’acheter, mais l’artiste, si gentil, m’a dit sans hésitation: « Si tu le veux, je te le donne. » J’étais surpris. C’était le destin qui avait fait que nous nous rencontrions. Ensuite mon ami a manifesté aussi  son intérêt pour l’achat d’un autre tableau pour le ramener à Paris comme cadeau offert à son ami. Je suis heureux de connaître ce jeune artiste, mais je suis aussi triste de voir souvent le petit garçon d’une douzaine d’années, qui est habitué à faire du spectacle devant la foule en crachant du feu avec de l’essence. Par hasard je l’ai interpellé un jour : « Pourquoi fais-tu ça ? Sais-tu que l’essence est toxique et que tu risques d’avoir un cancer de la gorge ? Je te conseille  d’arrêter ce métier. Pris de pitié,  je lui ai donné 100 000 đồng, une somme vraiment  dérisoire. Je me sens impuissant car je sais  que je ne peux plus rien faire pour lui.

Il y a tant de gens pauvres dans ce complexe, que puis-je faire ? Grâce à ce travail, je gagne quelques centaines de milliers de dongs par jour pour subvenir aux besoins de mon petit frère ou de ma petite sœur et vivre dignement car  mes parents sont divorcés.  Sa parole me hante encore lorsque j’écris encore tout ce qui est en rapport avec ce complexe d’appartements. Une seule hirondelle n’apporte pas le printemps. Mais  malgré cela, je ne peux pas oublier ces enfants défavorisés. Ils sont l’avenir de notre pays.

Galerie des photos

Policy of rapprochement with Việtnam

 

Version vietnamienne

Version française

The hospitality that Rama I extended to Nguyễn Ánh later served as the basis for the development of the future relationship between the two countries. It is not unrelated to Nguyễn Ánh’s careful conduct in seeking an appropriate solution to manage the dual suzerainty over Laos and Cambodia with the Thais. According to the Vietnamese researcher Nguyễn Thế Anh, these countries were considered at that time as children raised together by Siam and Vietnam, the former arrogating the title of father and the latter the title of mother. This dual dependence is known in the Thai language as « song faifa. » According to Siamese sources, Nguyễn Ánh sent six times from Gia Định to Bangkok silver and gold trees, a sign of allegiance between 1788 and 1801. (2). In a letter addressed to Rama I before his return to Gia Định, Nguyễn Ánh agreed to be placed under the protectorate of Siam in case he succeeded in restoring his power. Did Đại Nam (the former name of Vietnam) accept being a mandala state?

There are several reasons to refute this hypothesis. First, Đại Nam was not under the influence of Theravada Buddhism and did not have the Indianized culture as was the case with Cambodia and Laos because the religious role plays an important part in the mandala defined by the researcher O. Wolter. Siam had so far tried to extend its influence and control in regions where the Thais were more or less established and where the Indianized culture was visible.

This is not the case for Vietnam. Chakri and his predecessor Taksin had already failed in this endeavor in Cochinchina, which was nevertheless a new land because there was a significant Vietnamese colony with a different culture. Vassalage seems unlikely. The truth is never known, but one can rely on the fact that to acknowledge the benefits of Ralma I, Nguyễn Ánh could adopt this understandable behavior which was never incompatible with his temperament and especially with his Confucian spirit, in which ingratitude was not a part.

One always finds in him the gratitude and kindness that cannot later be refuted with Pigneau de Béhaine, who devoted much effort to convincing him to convert to Catholicism. During his reign, there was no persecution of Catholics, which can be interpreted as a recognition of Pigneau de Béhaine. From this point of view, one can see in him the principle of humanity (đạo làm người) by honoring both the gratitude towards those who protected him during 25 years of hardships and the revenge against those who killed all his relatives and family. (debt must be repaid, vengeance must be taken)

At the time of his enthronement in 1803 in Huế, Nguyễn Ánh received a crown offered by King Rama I but immediately returned it because he did not accept being treated as a vassal king and receiving the title that the Siamese King Rama I was accustomed to granting to his vassals. This behavior disproves the accusation that has always been made against Nguyễn Ánh.

For some Vietnamese historians, Nguyễn Ánh is a traitor because he brought in foreigners and gave them the opportunity to occupy Vietnam. The Vietnamese expression « Đem rắn cắn gà nhà » (Introducing the snake to bite the home chicken) is often attached to Nguyễn Ánh. It is unfair to label him a traitor because, in the difficult context he was in, there was no reason not to act as he did as a human being when he was at the brink of despair. Probably the following expression « Tương kế tựu kế » (Combining a stratagem of circumstance) suits him better, although there is a risk of playing into the hands of foreigners. It should also be recalled that the Tây Sơn had the opportunity to send an emissary to Rama I in 1789 with the aim of neutralizing Nguyễn Ánh using the stratagem (Điệu hổ ly sơn (Luring the tiger away from the mountain)), but this attempt was in vain due to Rama I’s refusal. (3)

Being intelligent, courageous, and resigned like the king of the Yue Gou Jian (Cẫu Tiển) from the Spring and Autumn period (Xuân Thu), he should have known the consequences of his act. There is not only Gia Long but also thousands of people who accepted to follow him and bear the heavy responsibility of bringing foreigners into the country to counter the Tây Sơn. Are they all traitors? This is a thorny question to which it is difficult to give an affirmative answer and a hasty condemnation without first having a sense of fairness and without being swayed by partisan opinions when one knows that Nguyễn Huệ remains the most adored hero by the Vietnamese for his military genius.

Disappointed by Gia Long’s refusal, Rama I showed no sign of resentment but found justification in the cultural difference. In Rama I, we find not only wisdom but also understanding. He wanted to deal henceforth on an equal footing with him. This equal treatment can be interpreted as a « privileged » bilateral relationship between the elder and the younger in mutual respect. Each of them should know that they needed the other even if it was an alliance of circumstance. Their countries were respectively threatened by formidable enemies, Burma and China.

Their special relationship did not fade over time because Rama I fell in love in the meantime with Nguyễn Ánh’s sister. It is not known what became of her (his wife or his concubine). However, there was a love poem that Rama I dedicated to her and which continued to be sung even in the 1970s during the annual royal boat procession.

As for Nguyễn Ánh (or Gia Long), during his reign, he avoided military confrontation with Thailand over the thorny Cambodian and Laotian issues. Before his death, Gia Long repeatedly reminded his successor Minh Mạng to perpetuate the friendship he had managed to establish with Rama I and to consider Siam as a respectable ally in the Indochinese peninsula (4). This was later justified by Minh Mạng’s refusal to attack Siam at the request of the Burmese.

According to researcher Nguyễn Thế Anh, in continental Southeast Asia, out of about twenty important principalities around 1400, only three kingdoms remained that managed to establish themselves at the beginning of the 19th century as regional powers, among which were Siam and Đại Việt, one advancing eastward and the other southward at the expense of the Hinduized states (Laos, Cambodia, Champa). This conflict of interests intensified increasingly after the death of Rama I and Nguyễn Ánh.

Their successors (Minh Mạng, Thiệu Trị on the Vietnamese side and Rama III on the Siamese side) were entangled in the problem of succession of the Cambodian kings who kept fighting among themselves and seeking their help and protection. They were henceforth guided by a policy of colonialism and annexation which led them to confront each other militarily twice in 1833 and 1841 on Cambodian and Vietnamese territories and to find at the end of each confrontation a compromise agreement in their favor and to the detriment of their respective protégés.

The temporary alliance is no longer taken into account. The rivalry, which was becoming increasingly visible between the two competing countries Đại Nam and Siam, now rules out any rapprochement and any possible alliance. Even their policies are completely different, one aligning with the Chinese model to avoid any contact with Western colonialists and the other with the Japanese model to advocate the opening of borders.

The Khmer capital Phnom Penh was at one time occupied by the Vietnamese army of General Trương Minh Giảng while the regions of Western Cambodia (Siem Reap, Battambang, Sisophon) were in the hands of the Thais. According to the French historian Philippe Conrad, the king of Cambodia was considered a mere governor of the king of Siam. The royal insignia (golden sword, crown seal) were confiscated and held in Bangkok. The arrival of the French in Indochina put an end to their dual suzerainty over Cambodia and Laos. It allowed the Cambodian and Laotian protégés to recover part of their territory in the hands of the Vietnamese and the Thais. Đại Nam under Emperor Tự Đức had to face the French colonial authorities who had annexed the six provinces of Nam Bộ (Cochinchina).

Thanks to the foresight of their kings (particularly that of Chulalongkorn or Rama V), the Thais, relying on the rivalry policy between the English and the French, managed to maintain their independence at the cost of territorial concessions (the Burmese and Malay territories occupied were returned to the English and the Laotian and Khmer territories to the French). They chose a flexible foreign policy (chính sách cây sậy) like the reed that adapts to the wind. It is no coincidence to see the sacred union of the three Thai princes at the dawn of the Thai nation in 1287 and the submission to the Sino-Mongol troops of Kublai Khan.

It is this synthetic policy of adaptation that allows them to stay away from colonial wars, always side with the victors, and exist today as a flourishing nation despite their late emergence (dating from the early 14th century) in mainland Southeast Asia.

Pictures of Venice of the East (Vọng các)

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(1) Bùi Quang Tùng: Professeur, membre scientifique de EFEO. Auteur de plusieurs ouvrages sur le Vietnam.
(2) P.R.R.I, p. 113.
(3) Pool, Peter A.: The Vietnamese in Thailand, p 32, note 3.


Latent conflicts with Vietnam


Vietnamese version
French version

There are victories and defeats on both sides. Leading an army of 20,000 men and a fleet, Taksin succeeded in driving out, after a ten-day siege, Mo Shi-Lin (Mạc Tiên Tứ in Vietnamese), the son of Mạc Cửu, from Hà Tiên. He was a significant Chinese ally of the Nguyễn lords and the protector of the son of the last king of the Ayutthaya dynasty, Chao Chuy (Chiêu Thúy). The latter continued to be one of the potential contenders for the crown and a daily concern for Taksin. Due to his military setbacks at Châu Đốc and in the Sadec region, Taksin was forced to accept the peace treaty offered by Mạc Thiên Tứ and to abandon Hà Tiên in ruins in exchange for the return of Prince Chiêu Thúy, the release of Mạc Thiên Tứ’s daughter who was captured at the fall of Hà Tiên, and the maintenance on the Cambodian throne of a pro-Thai king named Ang Non.

Upon his return, Chiêu Thúy was executed along with his brother who was captured in Cambodia. As for Lord Nguyễn Phúc Thuần (later known as Duệ Tông), troubled by the rebellion of the « Tây Sơn brothers (Western Peasants), » he was forced to endorse this agreement and temporarily allow the Thais free rein in their territorial expansion policy over Laos and Cambodia. But the truce was short-lived for Mạc Thiên Tứ because in the meantime, he was pursued by the Tây Sơn who had succeeded in taking Gia Định (or Saigon) in 1776 and capturing Lord Nguyễn Phúc Thuần in Cà Mau. He had to seek refuge with his family and subordinates with Taksin in Thonburi (Thailand). However, the latter, obsessed and consumed by so much suspicion and distrust, ended up executing his family and subordinates, among whom was Prince Tôn Thất Xuân. To preserve his dignity and honor, Mạc Thiên Tứ committed suicide in September 1780 by swallowing a gold coin. Taksin’s distrust became increasingly overwhelming to the point where it turned into a mental illness accompanied by paranoid and tyrannical behavior.

It is one of the common traits of great politicians (Ts’ao Ts’ao (Tào Tháo) of the Three Kingdoms, Qin Shi Huang Di (Tần Thủy Hoàng) for example). It is this mistrust that later led him to imprison his close associates, particularly the family of his son-in-law Chakri, who was engaged in a military campaign in Cambodia against the Vietnamese of the young prince Nguyễn Ánh. Chakri (the future King Rama I) was forced to make a pact with Nguyễn Ánh’s lieutenants, Nguyễn Hữu Thùy and Hồ văn Lân. They sent him a knife, a sword, and a flag as a sign of their support against Taksin. Having managed to return in time when a coup d’état overthrew the latter, the Siamese general Chaophraya Mahakasatsuk (or Chakri) thus became King Rama I and the founder of the Chakri dynasty.

His advent allowed the closure of the Thonburi dynasty and its replacement by the new dynasty with the transfer of the capital to Bangkok. It was here that King Rama I attempted to restore the Ayutthaya style through his royal palace (Bangkok). The establishment of the new capital did not correspond to a renewal of Siamese art. Rama I was interested in continuing the unfinished work of King Taksin the Great in the march eastward. He did not hesitate to mount a military expedition to assist Crown Prince Nguyễn Ánh in his struggle against the Tây Sơn. Unfortunately, this Vietnamo-Siamese expedition was crushed in 1783 in the Rạch Gầm-Xoài Mút canals of today’s Tiền Giang province by the strategist king Nguyễn Huệ. Of the Siamese army initially composed of at least 50,000 men and 300 junks, only 2,000 men managed to pass through Cambodia to return to Thailand.

Taking advantage of the geographical unfamiliarity of the terrain (địa lợi) and the military underestimation of the enemies, Nguyễn Huệ avoided a frontal engagement at Sadec and quickly succeeded in thwarting the Siamese invasion in the canals near Mỹ Tho. Nguyễn Huệ needed a swift victory because he knew that the Trịnh in Northern Vietnam could take advantage of this opportunity to invade Qui Nhơn in central Vietnam.

Hunted like a wild beast and plunged into the abyss of sadness, Nguyễn Ánh was forced to exile himself to Bangkok, accompanied by about thirty mandarins and approximately 200 soldiers for a short period (from 1785 to 1787). He was later joined by 5,000 soldiers under General Nguyễn Huỳnh Đức. According to Vietnamese professor Bùi Quang Tùng (1), many refugees preferred to stay in Thailand and marry Siamese women.

Policy of rapprochement with Việtnam

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Kingdom of Ayutthaya (Version anglaise)

Version vietnamienne
Version française

The kingdom of Sukhothai did not survive after the disappearance of the great King Rama Khamheng because his successors Lo Tai (1318-1347) and Lu Tai (1347-1368), preoccupied with religious faith, neglected to watch over their vassals among whom there was a brave and energetic prince from U Thong (*) known for his territorial ambitions. He did not hesitate to subdue Lu Tai of Sukhothai. He thus became the founder of the new dynasty by taking Ayutthaya, located in the lower valley of the Menam Chao Praya, as the capital. He took the title Ramathibodi I (or Rama the Great) (or Ramadhipati). His kingdom was not unified in the strict sense of the term but was in a way a mandala (**). The king was at the center of several concentric circles of the mandala system. The outermost circle consisted of autonomous principalities (or muäng) each governed by a member of the royal family, while the closest circle was in the hands of governors appointed by the king. An edict dating from 1468 or 1469 reported that there were 20 vassal kings paying homage to the king of Ayutthaya.

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

พระนครศรีอยุธยา


© Đặng Anh Tuấn

(*) U Thong: district located in the province of Suphanburi. It is the kingdom of Dvaravati, which the Chinese often referred to as T’o Lo po ti. It is here that the famous Chinese monk Huan Tsang (Huyền Trang) passed through during his journey to India to bring back original Buddhist texts.

(**) Mandala term used by WOLTERS, O.W. 1999. History, Culture and Religion in Southeast Asian Perspectives. Revised Edition, Ithaca, Cornell University and the Institute of Southeast Asian Studies. pp 16-28.


Despite this, his grip and authority were relative over distant principalities that could at any time assert their independence and claims with their charismatic leaders. His religious role (dharmaraja) served as a counterbalance to the potential rivalry of these vassal kings. This is why the kingdom of Ayutthaya often experienced succession wars and internal struggles during its existence.

At its peak, the kingdom of Ayutthaya occupied roughly the territory of present-day Thailand, minus the buffer kingdom of Lanna (whose capital was Chiangmai) and part of the east in Burma. According to researcher Nguyễn Thế Anh, this type of political configuration was also found for a certain time at the beginning of the 11th century in Vietnam but disappeared in favor of the centralization of power in the capital at the time of its transfer to Thăng Long (Hanoi) under the reign of Lý Thái Tổ (Lý Công Uẩn).

According to the Thai historian Charnvit Kasetsiri, this prince of U Thong came from a Chinese family. Thanks to the marital alliance with the king of Lopburi, he succeeded in imposing himself to succeed the latter. From then on, Ayutthaya became the center of Siamese political power until its destruction by the Burmese of King Hsinbyushin in 1767. Expansionist, Ramathibodi soon took Angkor in 1353. This happened again twice with Ramesuen (the son of King Ramathibodi) in 1393 and with Borommaracha II in 1431. The Khmers were forced to transfer their capital to Phnom Penh with the Khmer king Ponheat Yat. Despite their sacking of Angkor, the kings of Ayutthaya continued to willingly present themselves as heirs of the kings of the Angkorian empire. They took over not only the organization of the court and the titulature of the vanquished but also their dancers and their ornaments. The return to the tradition of the Angkorian monarchy was evident. The king became, in a way, a living god whose public appearance was rare. His subjects could no longer look him in the face except his close family members. They had to address him in a specific language used for royalty. Endowed with divine power, the king could decide the fate of his subjects. It was under the reign of Ramathibodi that a series of reforms was initiated. He brought members of the Sinhalese monastic community with the aim of establishing a new religious order.

In 1360, Theravada Buddhism became the official religion of the kingdom. A legal code incorporating Thai custom and based on the Hindu Dharmashāstra was adopted. As for Ayutthaya art, it initially evolved under the influence of Sukhothai art. Then it continued to find its inspiration in the field of sculpture before returning to Khmer models when King Trailokanatha succeeded his father on the throne in 1448. In short, the Ayutthaya style is a blend of the Sukhothai style and the Khmer style.

Described by the Abbé de Choisy, a member of a French delegation sent in 1685 by King Louis XIV to the Siamese King Narai as a cosmopolitan and marvelous city, Ayutthaya quickly became the prey of Burmese covetousness because of its wealth and grandeur. Despite the meaning of its Sanskrit name (« impregnable fortress »), it was looted and devastated by the Burmese of King Bayinnaung of Toungoo in 1569. Then it was sacked again by the Burmese of King Hsinbyushin in 1767. The Burmese took advantage of this occasion to melt down the gold that covered the Buddha statues, but they neglected another stucco Buddha in one of the capital’s temples. Yet beneath the stucco lies the statue in solid gold.


This is indeed a stratagem employed by the Siamese monks to hide the treasure at the time when the Burmese were besieging the capital. This golden Buddha is currently in the Wat Traimit located in the heart of the Chinatown district in Bangkok.

After the destruction of the Ayutthaya capital, the Burmese withdrew taking not only the loot and prisoners (at least 60,000 Siamese) but also the king of Ayutthaya and his family. From then on, the kingdom of Ayutthaya was completely dismantled with the emergence of several local lords. Its capital was no longer the center of political power. According to the American anthropologist Charles Keyes, Ayutthaya no longer received the cosmic influences necessary for its continuity. Its reason for being was no longer justified. It would soon be replaced by the new capital Thonburi, very close to Bangkok, accessible by sea (in case of Burmese invasion) and founded by the governor of Tak province named Sin. That is why he is commonly called Taksin (or Trịnh Quốc Anh in Vietnamese) or Taksin the Great in the history of Thailand.

Being of Teo Chiu (Chaozhou) Chinese origin, he managed to establish himself as the unifier and liberator of Thailand after eliminating all contenders and defeating the Burmese at Ayutthaya following two days of fierce fighting. His reign lasted only 15 years (1767-1782). Yet it was under his reign that Thailand regained not only independence but also prosperity. It also became one of the powerful states of Southeast Asia by successfully permanently freeing the rival kingdom of Lanna (Chiang Mai) from Burmese yoke in 1774 and by extending its influence and vassalage over Laos and Cambodia through military expeditions. It began to take an interest in the strategic position played at the beginning of the 18th century by the principality of Hà Tiên governed by a Cantonese Chinese Mac King Kiou (or Mạc Cửu in Vietnamese), hostile to the new Qing (Manchu) dynasty in the Gulf of Siam. It always entertained the idea of monopolizing and controlling trade in the Gulf of Siam.

It was in Laos that the Thais, led by General Chakri (future King Rama I), took the Emerald Buddha from the Laotians and brought it back to Thonburi in 1779 before permanently installing it in the royal palace of Bangkok. This Buddha thus became the protector of the Chakri dynasty and the guarantor of Thailand’s prosperity.

Having been divided into three entities: the kingdom of Vientiane, the kingdom of Luang Prabang, and the kingdom of Champassak after the death of a great king of Laos, Surinyavongsa, Laos temporarily fell under Thai rule. However, in Cambodia, taking advantage of internal dissensions related to the succession of the throne and always pursuing an expansionist policy eastward to fully control the Gulf of Siam, the Thais did not hesitate to enter into armed conflict with the Vietnamese lords Nguyễn, who until then had oversight over Cambodia, which had granted the Vietnamese facilities for settlement in its territory (Cochinchina) with King Prea Chey Chetta II in 1618.

Latent conflicts with Vietnam

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Art of Sukothai (Version anglaise)


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With the first great Thai kingdom of Sukhothai, a new civilization emerged that knew how to take advantage of indigenous culture under the impetus of an exceptional and equally remarkable personality, King Rama Khamheng. For Georges Coedès, the Thais were remarkable assimilators. Instead of destroying everything that belonged to the former masters (Mon-Khmers) as the Vietnamese did during the conquest of Champa, the Thais tried to appropriate it and rediscover themes in the old Mon-Khmer repertoires to create a new, unique style, allowing local traditions to show through in architecture (chedis) and statuary (Buddhas). Mahayana was henceforth abandoned in favor of Theravada Buddhism, to which Thai aesthetics were entirely devoted. This obviously drew its iconographic and plastic formulas from Khmer art and that of Dvaravati (Mon).

The blossoming of Sukhothai art testifies to a will for innovation and remarkable vitality despite certain Sinhalese, Burmese, and Khmer influences. This is seen in the great creation of Buddha iconography. These Buddhas, represented in human form, were sculpted according to very precise rules that Thai artists had to meticulously respect. According to Bernard Groslier, there is a slight exaggeration in the beauty of these works in order to accentuate stylization and show the originality of a new and dynamic society. The excessive elongation found in the arms and ears and the excessive deformation of the upper bun clearly reflect the lack of realism.

Despite this, the Buddhist sculpture of Sukhothai undoubtedly testifies to an entirely original art and a period when the Thai nation needed a cultural and religious identity and a distinct personality illustrated by the example found in the creation of the Walking Buddha. Its graceful form cannot go unnoticed and manages to penetrate the Thai people. A fluidity is found in the movement of this Buddha. Its appearance is both light and serene. Its oval-shaped head, perfectly arched eyebrows in a semicircle extended by a long aquiline nose, its curly hair topped with a long flame (uṇīsa) (Sinhalese tradition), its mouth surrounded by a double line (Khmer tradition), its clothes clinging to the body are the characteristic features of the Buddhist art of Sukhothai.

Despite this, the Buddhist sculpture of Sukhothai undeniably bears witness to an entirely original art and a period when the Thai nation needed a cultural and religious identity and a distinct personality illustrated by the example found in the creation of the Walking Buddha. Its graceful form cannot go unnoticed and manages to penetrate the Thai people. A fluidity is found in the movement of this Buddha. Its appearance is both light and serene. Its oval-shaped head, perfectly arched semicircular eyebrows extended by a long aquiline nose, its curly hair topped with a long flame (unîsa) (Sinhala tradition), its mouth surrounded by a double line (Khmer tradition), its clothes clinging to the body are the characteristic features of the Buddhist art of Sukhothai.

Under the reign of Rama Khamheng (or Rama the Brave), a new society was formed from the Mon-Khmer heritage. This society found its administrative and social model from the Mongols. The Thai script was created and based on the Khmer cursive script, which had its distant origin in southern India. Theravada Buddhism was adopted as the state religion. Despite this, animism continued to persist, as evidenced by the cult of the spirit of the land mentioned by Rama Khamheng. He established on a hill near Sukhothai an altar dedicated to a spirit named Phra Khapung Phi, superior to all other spirits to ensure the prosperity of the kingdom. It was his responsibility to honor this cult every year. This same mindset was also seen at the beginning of the 20th century in Vietnam with the ritual ceremony of Nam Giao (Huế) celebrated by the emperor, as being the Son of Heaven, he was supposed to ask each year for the protection and blessing of Heaven for the country. (Similarly in China with the Temple of Heaven (Thiên Đàn) in Beijing).

It is not surprising to still find nowadays this tradition, this idea of the superior spirit in the Emerald Buddha (or Phra Keo Morakot), the palladium of Thailand and protector of the Chakri dynasty in the chapel of the royal palace in Bangkok. For Bernard Groslier, the parallelism is not gratuitous: the Thais belong to the primitive world of Chinese thought. Questions arise from this comparison because one cannot ignore that, similar to the Vietnamese, the Thais were part of the Cent Yue group, most of whose ethnicities were animists and belonged to the agricultural world. They were accustomed to honoring the cult of the spirits of the land, agriculture, or the village before coming under Chinese influence. Rama Khamheng succeeded in establishing diplomatic relations with Kublai Khan’s China. He encouraged the arrival and settlement of Chinese artisans in the capital. With their expertise, the kingdom of Sukhothai soon became known for its famous Sawankhalok ceramics.

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