Văn Lang kingdom (Văn Lang)

French version
Vietnamese version

 In fact, Văn Lang referres the semi-legendary epoch of the eighteen Hùng kings or Lạc Vương (2879-257 B.C.) or 2622 years. It was the legend and the myth of the Dragon and the Immortal of whom Vietnamese are issue. This kingdom was located in the Yang Tse river basin (Sông Dương Tử) and was placed under the authority of a Hùng king . This one had been elected for his courage and his values. He had divided his kingdom into districts entrusted to his brothers known under the name « Lạc hầu » ( marquis ). His male children have the title of Quan Lang and his daughters that of Mỵ nương. His people was known under the name « Lạc Việt« . His men had a habit of tattooing their body. This « barbarian » practice, often revealed in the Chinese annals, was intended to protect men from the attacks of  water dragons (con thuồng luồng) if one believes the Vietnamese texts. It is perhaps the reason why the Chinese often designated them under the name « Qủi (daemons) ».

Loincloth and chignon constituted the usual costume of these people to which were added bronze ornaments. The Lac Viet lacquered their teeth in black, chewed betel nuts and crushed rice with their hand. The farmers practiced the cultivation of rice in flooded field. They lived in plains and coastal areas while,  in the mountainous areas of the current Việt Bắc and on part of the territory of the current Chinese province of Kuang Si,  lived the Tây Âu,  ancestors of the ethnic groups Tày, Nùng and Choang currently disseminated in the North Vietnam and in the South of China. At that epoch, the Vietnamese people lived on fishing and cultivation. They already knew how to use tree bark to make clothes, prepare rice alcohol, practice slash and burn agriculture, eat ordinary rice or sweet rice, live in houses on stilts to avoid wild animals etc… Many Vietnamese popular tales (the story of the Sweet Rice Cake, that of the Betel Quid and that of the Mountain and River Gods etc.) came  from these customs.

There is a part of reality in the history of this kingdom. The ruines of the Cổ Loa citadel (Spiral citadel) located  about 18km in the district Đồng Ánh from  Hànội and the temples of Hùng kings testifies to these indisputable vestiges with historians viewpoint.

 

HUNG_VUONG

 

Vieille maison Phùng Hưng

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Nhà cổ Phùng Hưng

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Musée de la porcelaine et de la céramique (Bảo tàng gốm sứ mậu dịch)

Musée du commerce de la céramique

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Temple Guan Yu (Miếu Quang Công)

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Siège des congrégations chinoises (Hội quán ngũ Bang)

 

 

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Galerie des photos

Trung tâm hoa văn lễ nghĩa

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Siège de la congrégation du Hainan (Hội quán Hải Nam)

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Le mythe de Táo Quân (Chuyện ông Táo)

Le mythe de Táo Quân

English version
Version vietnamienne
Galerie des photos

Le mythe des génies du foyer repose sur la tragique histoire d’un bûcheron et de sa femme. Il prend sa source dans le taoïsme. Ce couple modeste vivait heureux jusqu’au jour où  il découvrit qu’il ne pouvait pas avoir d’enfants. L’infortuné mari se mit à boire et à maltraiter sa femme. Celle-ci ne pouvant en supporter davantage le quitta et épousa un chasseur d’un village voisin. Mais un jour, fou de solitude et plein de remords, le bûcheron décida de rendre visite à sa femme pour lui présenter ses excuses.

Sur ces entrefaites, le chasseur rentra chez lui. Afin d’éviter tout malentendu, la jeune femme cacha son premier mari dans une étable au toit de chaume, située près de la cuisine où le chasseur était en train de fumer son gibier. Par malheur, une braise s’échappa du foyer et mit le feu à l’étable.

Affolée, la jeune femme s’élança vers l’étable en flammes pour sauver son ex-époux. Le chasseur la suivit pour lui porter secours et tous trois périrent dans le brasier. L’empereur de Jade (Ngọc hoàng), du haut de son trône céleste, profondément touché par ce triste sort, divinisa les trois malheureux et les chargea de veiller au bien-être des Vietnamiens  à l’emplacement avantageux de la cuisine. C’est ainsi qu’ils devinrent  dès lors les génies du Foyer.

Pendant la semaine où les génies sont au ciel, les Vietnamiens craignent que leur maison soit sans protection. Afin de prévenir toute incursion des mauvais esprits dans leur maison, ils érigent devant chez eux une  haute perche de bambou (cây nêu) sur laquelle sont suspendues des plaques en argile (ou khánh en vietnamien) vibrant avec sonorité au gré du vent pour éloigner les esprits. Au sommet de cette perche, flotte un morceau de tissu jaune marqué par l’emblème bouddhique.

Cette coutume trouve ses origines dans une légende bouddhique  intitulée « Le Tết du bûcheron » selon laquelle les  Vietnamiens doivent affronter des esprits maléfiques.

C’est toujours le vingt-troisième jour du dernier mois lunaire que chacun des  Vietnamiens organise une cérémonie de départ du génie de foyer  pour le ciel. On trouve non seulement sur son autel des fruits, des mets délicieux, des fleurs mais aussi un équipement de voyage approprié (3 paires de bottes, 3 chapeaux, vêtements, des papiers votifs) et des trois carpes mises dans une petite cuvette. À la fin de la cérémonie, on brûle les papiers votifs et on libère les carpes dans un étang ou dans une rivière afin que le génie puisse s’en servir pour s’envoler au ciel. Celui-ci doit rapporter tout ce qu’il a vu sur terre à l’empereur de jade, en particulier dans le foyer de chaque Vietnamien. Son séjour dure ainsi  six jours au ciel. Il doit retourner au foyer dans la nuit du réveillon jusqu’au moment où  débute la nouvelle année.

(*) cây nêu: C’est un arbre cosmique reliant la terre au ciel  en raison des croyances des peuples anciens adorant le soleil, y compris les Proto-Vietnamiens mais il  est employé également  pour délimiter leur territoire.

Version vietnamienne

Cuisine des Vietnamiens 

Truyền thuyết về các Táo quân được  dựa trên câu chuyện bi thảm của một người thợ rừng và vợ của ông ta. Nó có nguồn gốc từ Lão giáo. Cặp vợ chồng khiêm tốn này được sống hạnh phúc cho đến khi họ phát hiện ra rằng họ không thể có con. Người chồng bất hạnh nầy mới  bắt đầu rượu chè và ngược đãi  bà vợ. Bà nầy không thể chịu đựng được nữa và rời bỏ ông ta và kết hôn với một người thợ săn ở làng bên cạnh. Nhưng một ngày nọ, cô đơn và hối hận, người thợ rừng quyết định đến thăm vợ để xin tạ lỗi.

Giữa lúc đó, người thợ săn trở về nhà. Để tránh mọi sự hiểu lầm, người phụ nữ trẻ buộc lòng giấu người chồng cũ của mình ở trong một chuồng gia súc có mái nhà bằng tranh, nằm gần nhà bếp nơi mà người thợ săn đang hun khói thịt rừng. Thật không may, một đóm lửa  than hồng thoát ra khỏi lò và đốt cháy chuồng.

Cùng quẫn, người phụ nữ trẻ lao mình về phía chuồng  đang bốc cháy để cứu chồng cũ. Người thợ săn chạy theo cô để giúp cô và cả ba đã chết trong ngọn lửa. Ngọc Hoàng, từ trên cao nhìn xuống, cảm động vô cùng trước số phận đau buồn này, phong thần cho ba người  và buộc họ phải trông chừng từ đây hạnh phúc của người dân Việt ở vị trí thuận lợi của nhà bếp. Bởi vậy họ trở thành các thần bếp núc từ đây của các gia đình người Việt.

Trong tuần lễ  các táo quân ở trên trời, người Việt lo sợ ngôi nhà của họ sẽ không được bảo vệ. Để ngăn chặn sự xâm nhập của tà ma vào nhà, họ dựng trước cửa nhà một cây nêu có treo những khánh đất phát tiếng động khi có gió rung. Trên đỉnh cột này  có treo một mảnh vải màu vàng có biểu tượng của Phật giáo.

Phong tục này bắt nguồn từ một truyền thuyết Phật giáo mang tên « Tết của người thợ rừng », theo đó người dân việt phải đối mặt với những linh hồn ma quỷ.

Cứ đến ngày hai mươi ba tháng Giêng âm lịch, mỗi người  dân Việt lại tổ chức lễ tiễn Táo quân  về trời. Không chỉ có  trái cây, thức ăn ngon, các bông hoa trên bàn thờ của Táo quân mà còn có đồ dùng cho cuộc hành trình thích hợp (3 đôi giầy, 3 cái mũ, 3  bộ đồ quần áo, vàng mã) và ba con cá chép được đặt trong một chiếc thau nhỏ. Sau khi kết thúc lễ cúng thì đốt vàng mã và thả cá chép xuống ao hay sông để Táo quân mượn cá chép bay về trời.  Táo quân phải báo cáo lại với Ngọc Hoàng tất cả những gì Táo quân được nhìn thấy ở trần gian, nhất là ở trong nhà của mỗi gia đình của người dân Việt. Thời gian lưu trú của Táo quân được  kéo dài là sáu ngày ở trên trời. Táo quân phải trở về nhà vào đêm giao thừa đúng lúc khi năm mới vừa bắt đầu.

(*) cây nêu:  cây vũ trụ nối liền đất với trời, do tín ngưỡng thờ thần mặt trời của các dân tộc cổ mà trong đó có người Việt cổ mà còn hàm chứa ý thức về lãnh thổ cư trú của họ.

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The betel quid (Trầu Cau)

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The betel quid

French version
Vietnamese version

 

Long time ago, under the reign of king Hùng Vương the 4th, there were two twin brothers, Cao Tân and Cao Lang. They looked so much alike that it was difficult to distinguish one from the other. They both attended the school of an old teacher in the village who had a sole daughter named  Liên whose beauty attracted all the homage of all the young men in the area.

The old teacher liked both of them. He would grant his daughter’s hand to one of them, preferably the elder because according to Vietnamese customs, the elder brother would get married first. In order to be able to distinguish them, he relied on a little trick by inviting them for dinner. The one who first picked up the chopsticks would be the elder. So Cao Tân got the hand of his daughter without any doubts that his younger brother has devoted an ardent love to her. They went on to live together in a complete harmony and experienced a faultless happiness.
Cao Tân continued no less to love his younger brother like ever before and would do anything to make him happy.

However, in spite of that, the younger brother could not rid of the pain in his heart. He decided to leave them and went out for an adventure. After so many days of walking, he ended up falling exhausted on the road and was transformed into a block of lime stone with an immaculate white.

The elder brother, taken by growing worries for his younger brother left in search for him. He followed the same road taken by his younger brother. In a beautiful morning, after so many days of walking, he arrived at the lime stone block, sat on it and succumbed without movement. He was metamorphosed in to a betel nut tree growing tall with its green palms and oblong little fruits. The tree began to extend its branches and its shadow over the lime stone mass as if to protect it from the changes of weather.

Staying at home without any news from her husband, the young wife in turn left the house and went for a search of her spouse. She roamed fields, crossed villages and finally one day, she came real close to the tree. Tired by the long walk, she leaned back at the foot of the tree, took her turn to die and change into a plant whose stems curled around the trunk of the tree with large intensely green leaves in the form of a heart.

One day, while passing through the area, King Hùng heard this story. He tried chewing betel and areca with a little of the lime from the limestone block. He found that the resulting saliva was as ruddy as blood, with a fresh, tangy and fragrant taste. From then on, he ordered betel and areca to be included in the wedding ceremony as a ritual offering. This is one of the Vietnamese customs that must be observed at the wedding feast. Areca nuts and bright green betel leaves in the shape of a heart are always part of the wedding gifts, symbolizing the pledge of marital love and fidelity.

Similar to a cigarette, betel quid was a conversation starter in old Vietnamese society. That’s why it’s customary to say in Vietnamese “Miếng trầu là đầu câu chuyện”. The betel quid is also used to measure time, because in the absence of clocks in those days, a mouthful of betel corresponds to roughly three or four minutes, giving you an idea of how long a conversation lasted.

 The betel quid

This is one of Vietnamese customs to be observed at a marriage ceremony. There is always betel, with betel nut and intensely green leaves in the form of a heart that is part of wedding gifts that symbolize an eternal union.

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The Gongs of Central Highlands (Cồng Chiền Tây Nguyên) Last part

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Photo Đinh Xuân Dũng ( Nha Trang )

Intangible Heritage of Humanity by

Unesco in 2005

Last part

In the ritual ceremonies, the players of gongs move slowly in single file or in half-circle in front of a public admirer. They left from right to left in the counterclockwise direction to go back in time and return to their origins. Their footsteps are slow and rhymed to the beats of gongs, each of which has a well-defined role in the set. Each gong corresponds exactly to a guitar string, each having a note, a particular tone. Whatever the melody played, there is the active participation of all the gongs in the procession. However, an order very precise in the sequence and composition of beats is imposed in order to respond to the melodies and own themes chosen by each ethnic group.

Sometimes, to better listen to the melody, the auditor has the interest to be into a location equidistant from all the players arranged in a half circle otherwise he cannot listen properly because of the weakness and amplification of the resonance of some gongs corresponding respectively to the distance or the excessive closeness of its geographical position relative to one another.

For most of ethnic groups, the set of gongs is reserved only for men. This is the case of the ethnic group Jarai, Edê, Bahnar, Sedang, Co Hu. By contrast, for the ethnic group Eđê Bih, women are allowed to use the gongs. In a general way, the gongs are of variable size. The disk of the major gongs may vary from 60 to 90 cm in diameter with a cylindrical edge from 8 to 10 cm. This does not allow the players to wear them because they are too heavy.

These gongs are suspended often to the beams in house by the ropes. However, there are the gongs more small whose disk varies from 30 to 40 cm with an edge from 6 to 7cm. The latter are frequently encountered in the festive rituals.

For the identification of highland gongs, the Vietnamese musicologist Trần Văn Khê has the opportunity to enumerate a number of characteristics in one of his articles:

  • 1°) They are very varied.
  • 2°) They are linked closely to the spiritual life of highland ethnic minorities. Being regarded as sacred instruments, they promote communication with spirits and geniuses.
  • 3°) They accompany the highland people from its birth until its death. Their presence is visible not only in the important events (weddings, funerals, wars etc.) but also in the agricultural feasts (paddy germination, ear intiation, feast of the agricultural close etc.).
  • 4°) The manner of playing the highland gong is very particular and reflects the family structure of each ethnic minority. This allows to easily identify the ethnic group in question by the played stamp melodies.
  • 5°) The movement of players is always performed in the counterclockwise direction in the purpose to go back in time and return to the source. It is identical to the approach used by the Zen Buddhist school in its walking meditation (thiền hành) oriented from « the outside to the heart » (từ ngoài vào tim).

The composition of the played melody is based primarily on the sequence of beats settled according to original processes of repetition and answer.

One doesn’t finds elsewhere as many gongs as one had them on the Highlands of Vietnam. That is why, during his visit in Vietnam, the ethnomusicologist Filipino José Maceda, accompagned by Vietnamese musician Tô Vũ, had the opportunity to emphasize that the highland gongs are very original when he was in contact with the gongs. For him, because of the large number of gongs found, it is possible the Highlands may be the gong cradle in Southeast Asia.

Over the years, the risk of seeing the « original » and « sacred » character is real because of the illicit trafficking of gongs, the lack of gong tuner, the disinterestedness of young people and the destruction of natural environment where the gongs have been « educated ».

Highlands Gongs

For a few years, being regarded as cultural goods, the gongs become the object of all desire for Vietnamese antique dealers and foreign collectors, which brings the local authorities to exercise strict control with the aim of stopping the haemorrhage of gongs (chảy máu cồng chiêng)

The governmental effort is also visible at the local level by the establishment of incentive programs for learning with young people. But according to some Vietnamese ethnomusicologists, this allows to make durable the gongs without giving to the latter the means to possess a soul, a sacred character, a ethnic sound color because they need not only the skillful hand and fine hearing of gong tuner but also the environment. This is the latter factor that one forgets to protect effectively during the last years. Because of the intensive deforestation and galloping industrialisation for the coming years, the ethnic minorities don’t have the opportunity to practice slash and burn agriculture. They will not have any occasion to honor the ritual festivals, their genius and their traditions. They no longer know to express sorrows and joys through the gongs. They don’t know their oral epics (sử thi). Their paddy fields are replaced by coffee and rubber plantations. Their children are no longer forest clearers but they are engaged to industrial and tourist activities, which allows them to have comfortable livelyhoods. Few now recall how to tune these gongs.

The character « sacred » of gongs no longer exists. The latter become instruments of entertainment like other music instruments. They can be used anywhere without significant events and very specific and sacred hours (giờ thiêng). They are played according to the tourism demand. They are no longer what they were until now.

It is for this irreparable loss that UNESCO has not hesitated to underline the urgency in the recognition of space of gong culture in the Central Highlands (Tây Nguyên) as the masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on 25 November 2005. The gongs are only one essential element in the achievement of this masterpiece but it must be understood that other elements are as important as these gongs: the environment, the traditions and customs, the ethnic groups etc. ..

The gongs without their environment and their ethnic sound color no longer possess the sacred soul (hồn thiêng) of Central Highlands.They lose the original character for ever. There is always a price to pay in the preservation of the gong culture in Central Highlands but it is to the scope of our collective efforts and our political will. One cannot refute that the culture of the gongs in Highlands is part now of our cultural heritage.

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The Gongs of Central Highlands (Cồng Chiền Tây Nguyên) Third part

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The culture of the gongs is localized in the 5 provinces of central Vietnam (Đắc Lắc, Pleiku, Kontum, Lâm Đồng and Đắk Nong). Some twenty ethnic groups (Bahnar, Sedang (Xơ Đăng), Mnongs, Cơ Ho, Rơ Mam, Êđê, Jarai (Giarai people), Radhes etc ..) are identified in the use of these gongs. According to illustrated Vietnamese musicologist Trần Văn Khê, in the other countries of Southeast Asia, the gong player always remains seated and can play several instruments associated at the same time. This is not the case of the gong players of Highlands in Vietnam. Each player may play a single gong. There are as many gongs than players in a set.

Thanks to a thin string or to a band of cloth that can be more or less tightened by torsion, each player suspends the gong to the left shoulder. He struck the central dome of the gong outer face either with a wooden or leather mallet or with his right fist barren or wrapped up in fabric.

The sound quality of the gong depends not only on the alloy with which the gong has been manufactured but also the tuner quality. Other parameters are involved: the wooden or leather mallet, the position and action of the hand striking the gong, the tension of the strap etc. . In addition, the player can modulate skillfully the effects of the gong sound by varying the pressure and the relaxation on the bent edge of the outer face with his left hand. The muting effect may be caused by this action. Each ethnic group prefer a type of wood in the manufacture of the mallet. By choosing the hard wood, the Êđê often obtain interference noise in the power of the gong resonance. By contrast, in selecting the soft wood, the Bahnar manage to obtain the « clarity » of its fundamental tone despite the weakness of intensity detected in the resonance.

At the time of the purchase, the gong is delivered to the « raw » state, without musical tone, character and soul. Its outer face is almost flat. It is similar to an object producing an audible signal. (Cái kẻng) Thanks to the strokes of wooden mallet and to fine hearing of the tuner, the gong receives small bumps and concentric circles on its border and on its inner and outer faces. The blow of the mallet given on its outer face increase its tone.

By contrast, the decrease of the resonance is visible inversely with its inner face. The gong tuner manages to give it a sound color, a particular musical note, which makes it now a musical instrument in its own right. According to the highland people, analogous to the man, the gong has a face, a character and a soul.  It is unlike any other gong.It is said that the gong is educated because from an object that is purchased with the « raw » state from the Kinh (or Vietnamese) (Quảng Nam), it receives an education, a note, an ethnicity, a sacred character. For the gong purchased in Laos, it already has a soul but it is a Laotian soul.

To transform it into a gong of the high plateaus, it must be educated by the blows of wooden mallet so that it knows as well the language Bahnar, Stieng, Edê, Mnong etc. It now has the sacred soul (hồn thiêng) of the high plateaus.

The latter does not disappear as long as there is still the environment where the gong is « educated » (the forest, the ethnic groups, the villages, the sources of water, the animals etc.) The sacred character of the gong can only be found in this natural environment which allows it to find its ethnic identity through the melodies varying from one village to another or from one ethnic group to another and the agrarian rites. The gong can produce a false note over the years of use. One says that it is « sick ».

It must be treated by bringing in a doctor (or a good musician tuner) that it is difficult to find sometimes on-site. It is necessary to travel several kilometers in other regions to succceed in finding him. Once readjusted the sound, it is said that the gong is healed.

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